Getting the Hang of Anyang

So much to do, so little time! I can't seem to fit it all in. There is so much of Korea I still need to see, and too many festivals I don't want to miss. But being on a shoestring budget (as always), you have to know when to say no....and how to find the cheap and free things around this country. And everyone knows that the best things in life are free. So! What new and free things can we find around us this week?

Just a hop, skip and a 30 minute bus ride away from Siheung is Anyang Art Park. And this is no ordinary park. It's a bloomin wonderful park! It's like a trip to the sea-side, with a hike up a mountain and lots of art thrown in. 

'The Dancing Buddha'

The park is a huge public art space, where artists display their pieces amidst the forest and paths leading up to Samseong Mountain. So it's like an extra exciting hike. You never know whats going to be around the next tree.

The small river Samseongcheon also flows through the park, with a few tributaries running to it from the mountain. The river is fast flowing, crystal clear, and on a hot day.....dear lord you just want to jump in the water. And that's exactly what the Koreans do. Grab an inflatable dolphin and jump in. There are families eating lunch sat mid-stream, old couples floating in the shallows, kids wearing life-jackets in 3-feet of water, and of course, people knocking back soju in every direction. Ah the joys.

The nice thing about it, is if you fancy getting away from the crowds, you can just trace a tributary up through the forest until you find a nice quiet bit to sit in the water with a big contented sigh. Aaaaaah. And there are loads of small shops and restaurants down by the river to stock you up with drinks and food.

The final attraction to the park, and the first reason we heard about it, is the Alvaro Siza Hall. The hall shows different exhibitions throughout the year, but today 'A Revolutionary Lens, KORDA - Che Guevara and Cuba' was on display. The photographer had followed Che Guevara throughout Cuba after the revolution in 1959, and these were snapshots of his work. Despite having seeing the exhibition advertised in full English, there were no English texts once we got there (should have seen that one coming) - but heyho, even just viewing the photographs was worth it anyway. And I got a nice postcard. Well worth it then.

Where, How, What... Hmmmmm?

Transport - Gwanak Subway Station (line 1 exit 2), 10 minutes walk following sign posts.
Cost - Anyang Art Park is free. Alvaro Siza Hall 3,000 won.

We Know What's Best

Here we are, right in the middle of monsoon season. The rain plonks itself right in the midst of summer and throws in a few typhoons for good measure. And that's where we are right now. Wet wet wet. And still hot hot hot. How very confusing. How can we plan Korea adventures now? When the country is teetering between typhoon alert and blazing sunshine, all you can do is make plans in good faith, keep an eye on the weather reports, and be willing to make or break plans at midnight on a Friday night.

So there we were, midnight on a Friday night sat outside the 7/11, knockng back beers, when we suddenly decided - the rain had held off for long enough for us to risk it! We were going to Gangwan-do in the morning - the north-east province, which boasts beaches and mountains, borders North Korea, and best all...is home to an old friend who was well over-due a visit.

After two hours sleep (ouch) we were en route...and blazing sunshine was all around! And a mere eight hours later (ouch again) it was mid afternoon and we were stepping into the little seaside town of Bu-Gu and being reunited with fresh air and old friends.

I realised that us city dwellers get a totally different experience in Korea to those out in the countryside. To begin with, my entire apartment would have fitted on their balcony. Wheras I have a view of the apartment block next to mine, they have a view of the sea. Of course it would be a lot more isolated, but isolation in beautiiful surroundings could be much easier beared I think.  And oh my, how good it was to see the sea.

After a small walk through land filled with brightly coloured frogs, we were there......at the twelve foot barbed wire fence between us and the beach. The north-east beaches are not public. Because of their proximty to North Korea, it is feared that a swimming or submarine attack may take place, so look-out stations and huge barbed-wire fences defend the shores. So we did what anyone would do, found a nice human sized hole to squeeze through, and set up camp at an old look-out stationon the beach.

The water was so clear and it was so hot, a jolly good swim was had. In hindsight, that could have been a dangerous thing to do given where we were. But at this point, we weren't aware that South Korean soldiers were watching us. So instead we played music, drank soju, ate BBQ, and started a big bonfire when it got dark. This was going to be good!

We were all coming back from our wood collecting efforts (we had a ton), when we became aware that we were being watched. Whilst out gathering wood, a soldier had come out of his post to tell our friend that we were under surveillance, out of public land, and that we must leave or they would open fire. Crikey! That said, we hugely doubted they would shoot a group of tourists, and we were so comfortable, we thought we could stay put a while longer.  Our friend, who had just finished his two years military service in Korea, assured us that they had every right to shoot, and wasn't thrilled at our intention to stay. Given the fact that the South Korean military recently opened fire on a commercial passenger jet flying into Seoul, mistaking it for a North Korean attack, perhaps we shouldn't have been so laid back. But neverthless, we know what's best, and we had a fire roaring and were too comfortable to move. It really makes you wonder what's going on when you feel too 'comfortable' to move out of the way of potential gunfire.

We shouldn't have got comfortable. Out of the darkness, and suddenly lit up by floodlights, a heavily armed soldier walked straight towards us, gun in hand. Flippin 'Eck. Surrender! We mean no harm! All of us jumped up and started kicking out the fire and putting our things away. There's nothing like an armed man threatening to shoot you to make you work quickly.

I don't know what could have happened, or what the soldier was thinking at our unexplained presence on this high-alert beach, and the flood lights meant we could not see his face. I very much doubt he would have shot. Infact, I'm guessing that he was grinning under his helmet, thinking how amazing it was that he'd just seen us collect fire wood for an hour, get really comfortable, openly ignore the military warnings, and then jump around like rabbits in headlights once he came out holding a gun. Yes, yes, We Know What's Best.