Tuesday 19 April 2011

The Other Side of The Parallel

A few weeks ago I was shopping in Seoul and came across a campaign promoting justice in North Korea. I looked at the exhibition of photographs and case studies of people starving and imprisoned, and felt the familiar shock, anger and helplessness wave over me. The Parallel is just 40 miles away.


Before I moved to South Korea, I barely knew anything about the North. Infact, many people back home only hear about what new provocative act the North has done, or how likely it is that war will break out with the South. Sometimes, in the media hype, it's easy to imagine the North as the face of the dictator it is forced under. It's easy to forget the millions of people living there without freedom or human rights.

Inside North Korea, people live with a severe lack of freedom. There is almost no freedom of speech, religion, assembly, movement, and no-one may leave the country without permission. Education and healthcare are limited almost entirely to the elite.  Going against the government in any way, whether by accident or intention, leads to sentence within political prison camps, often with no hope of release. More than 150,000 prisoners are estimated to be living in such camps, and many do not know what 'crime' they committed. 'Guilt by Association' allows people to be sentenced for 'crimes' committed by family or aquaintances. The lack of legal protection in North Korea allows atrocoties to occur, such as using prisoners for medical experimentation, and allowing torture and starvation. Children are born into the camps and live under these conditions their entire lives.

Shin Dong-Hyuk was born in slavery into Camp No 14.


An interview with Shin Dong-Hyuk, Born And Raised In A Concentration Camp, gives a first hand impression of the life in a North Korean politcal camp. (The interview is 21 minutes into the clip.) Coming from a western society, it's hard to imagine not knowing the meaning of freedom.

So what can be done about this terrible situation? Well, promoting awareness is the start - the more people who know about it, the more people will campaign and lobby against it. Spread the word. Campaign. Sign petitions. Wherever in the world you are!
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And us here in South Korea? Over 20,000 North Koreans have defected into the South, often after months or years hiding in China, Burma, Thailand or Vietnam. The refugees are often poorly educated and malnourished, and struggle adapting to the commercialised culture of South Korea. There are several North Korean human rights groups based in Seoul who need volunteers. Click on the link to see how you can help out.

Justice For North Korea holds street campaigns every Saturday in Insadong, 3-5pm, to raise awareness of the plight of North Koreans. They also organise film screenings, events and fundraisers to assist North Korean defectors, or those wishing to defect.

PSCORE promotes a successful reunification with the Korean people, and co-ordinates a one-on-one English tutoring programme for refugees.

Helping Hands Korea helps refugees escape by providing secret foster homes in China to North Korean children, and sends food to orphans and schoolchildren in North Korea. They hold a weekly awareness-raising campaign every Tuesday evening from 7-9 pm, near Samgakji Station.

So now we can all get involved. Whether it's supporting a campaign every once in a while, becoming involved in the tutoring programme, or regularly hosting campaigns.....anything will be useful in helping to change the lives of those on the other side of the parallel.

Monday 11 April 2011

Brrrng Brrrng.. COMING THROUGH

Oh Korea, how much nicer you are when it's warm and sunny! The cherry blossoms are starting their annual sweep across the country and Buddha's lotus lanterns are hanging from rooftop to rooftop. For the first time in almost five months, Korea is feeling colourful again. Hurrah! I feel the need to celebrate. Give me fresh air! Give me exercise! Give me....A BIKE!


Well that's easy. There are tons and tons of bicycle repair shops and second hand sellers in Korea, and you can buy anything from dirt-cheap rusty Lespo bikes to slightly-less-cheap-but-still-cheap shiny newer models. We left with a snazzy blue fold-up bike, a shiny red model.....and I went for the rusty Lespo. And for 40,000 won (20 quid) I think I win. So once we had test rided our new purchases, and spruced up some old wheels, we were off....five foreigners in bicycle convoy through Korea.

Seeing foreign faces in our area of Gyeongi-do is still quite a surprise, so seeing five foreign faces zipping by in bicycle convoy got some reactions. Like the little boy shouting 'WAYGOOKIN!' ('foreigner') at the top of his voice. Or the Korean man shriekng 'HA HA HE HE HO HO'...or even better, the rice cake seller who flagged me down to give me a handfull of ricecake for free. (Which I, er, somehow ate before catching up with everyone else...oops).

It's also pretty terrifying. Motorbikes driving on pavements, cars going anywhere, and pedestrians being somehow oblivious to my constant bike belling......you're constantly trying to avoid being mowed down or from mowing someone else down. It doesn't help that Korea is so overpopulated. We cycled to Incheon Grand Park and it was one of the busiest parks I've ever been in.Must...not....hit...anyone. But besides the craziness, the park was very pretty and it was amazing to feel the 'ole wind in your hair and the sun on your skin (and the burn in your thigh....some of those hills are bloomin tough).

So yes, I've officially given up walking, busing, training..or any form of transport except cycling. So where can one cycle without constant fear of death in Korea? Well, I hunted down the Seoul Bicycle Tour Map, which shows cycle paths in and around the Seoul area.....

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It also seems that our beloved little Siheung has some good cycle routes - such as the 7.5km Greenway in Siheung, which runs from Siheung Gategol Ecological Park through Lotus Flower Theme Park to Mulwang reservoir, which is apparently best done in April. Well, oooo la la what a coincidence! There are also trails to Wolgot Port, Okgu Park and Oido Island. So that's it, all I need now is some lycra shorts and a streamlined helmet and I'll be off. Well, maybe not. But some picnics and beer could be aranged.

Watch out England, I might just bike it back :-)

Monday 4 April 2011

Fantasia Bucheon!

WOW! Siheung. No, I don't just really, really like where I live. 'Wow! Siheung' is the city slogan, and it's plastered everywhere. Why? Well, Korea just loves branding its cities with odd English slogans. Even though hardly anyone here speaks English. So here are just a few:
"Amazing Iksan. The City of Friendly to Women"
"Nice Jecheon. Healthy Life! Beautiful Life! Wealthy Life! The city of fresh wind and bright moon"
"Aha! Suncheon"
"Welcome all Netizens"

"The challenge which is force! Gongju which is great!"
"Active Yangsan! Nature! Tradition!!
Harmonizes today YANGSAN
(note: Mayor is do the suicide because to
express his sentiment towards the investigation and to prove his innocence)"
"Hanam City which is the
city of new leap,
and in which everyone wants to live!"




"Yes Gumi. Great Gumi Brilliant Gumi YesGUMI.
W.E.L.C.O.M.E. T.O. G.U.M.I."
"Wow! Siehung. Again & Again Siheung. Ace of Tourism City Siheung.
Pleasure Nature, Treasure Paradise Siheung"


         


and then the biggie.....


"Cheonan, the World's Best City"

So as you can imagine, Korea is pretty amazing. And this weekend I felt wonderfully spoilt for choice with all these amazing cities nearby.  So I decided to stay local and explore a neighbour to mine......"Fantasia Bucheon"

It turns out that Bucheon has a lot to offer besides restaurants and bars. After a little online exploration we found that Bucheon boasts its own outdoor film set, better known as Bucheon Fantastic Studios. The film set covers over 39 square kilometres, and is made to replicate 1920s Seoul, imitating the old streets of Jongno, Cheonggyecheon, Myeongdong, and Euljiro.


As an alien in Korea it's hard to imagine Seoul in its down-town heyday, so it's pretty amazing to walk around the old streets and soak it up. And because it's Bucheon, it's pretty empty, and therefore even more realistic. Until we came across the....er....big chicken sat in a corner being photographed by a film crew. There is no explanation.


Right next door to the film set is the Korea Cartoon Museum....or The Manwha Museum. And wow, did this museum exceed expectations! The museum is curated with creativity and diversity - illustrating satirical, manga and children's Korean cartoons. There are current artists exhibitions, as well as historical propaganda cartoons, opportunities to create your own pieces, and a 4D Manga Cinema.


The short manga film was fantastic. I sat down with my big classy spectacles expecting to be blown away by the 4D effects, and instead was blown away by the beautiful and incredibly sad 20 minute film. I expected my blokey-bloke of a boyfriend to be untouched by the beauty, only to find him trying to (unsuccessfully) download it at home later (was that a tear in his eye?). 

Anyway, it was a nice reminder not to overlook your home territory, just because it's home......there are always nice and exciting surprises to be found if you just dig a bit deeper. It was a fantastic day in Bucheon.... or should I say, fantasia.... ;-)






             




Friday 1 April 2011

The Great Wall of Korea

My lord it's been a wierd few weeks! It started with goodbyes and ended in hellos, and all I can say is that I am sad for the for the former and happy for the latter. It all serves as the reminder that we are expats...everything changes all the time. Aaaah the merry-go-round!  

This weekend I needed a change. Korean cities tend to look the same no matter where you are - highrise apartment blocks here, a 7/11 there, throw in a dunkin donuts and a norabang and, yes, it could be a city anywhere in the country. But walking around unknown streets and feeling......away from home.....is highly refreshing sometimes. So we abandoned Siheung for the shores of Suwon.....exciting new place here we come!


Well, yes, it looked the same. Until....what's this? Rising up around Suwon city are the mighty Hwaseong Fortress walls....the Great Wall of Korea! (perhaps I'm getting a little over-excited there). But they are ancient, they are impressive, and skirting 5km around the inner city, it was all we could do to stop ourselves a-hop, skippping and jumping around the trail.


That was, until we got about 4km round, realised we'd worn remarkably flat-footed shoes, and were now walking more like penguins than elegant ladies on a stroll. Neverthless, this did not stop us from entering the 'hat museum' (cap shop) or finishing the beautiful walk, which ended with a 30 foot high golden buddha.


It did, to my regret, mean that we were unable to do the worlds only public toilet tour. Suwon's former mayor went on to be the founder of the World Toilet Organisation, and consequently, Suwon is blessed to have a whole lot of high-quality public toilets, all with pamphlets available at the tourist information office. Alas, penguin feet syndrome meant we could not make it, but I'm sure I'll be back one day.

Instead we jumped into a cab and headed for the bars on Rodeo Street - the main area for bars and restaurants and Long Island Ice Teas, it seems. After getting suitably tipsy after a shockingly small amount of alcohol, we headed to the 'Grand Sauna' sauna to freshen up and go to sleep. The Grand Sauna (which really isn't very grand) offers you a place to bathe and sleep for a mere 7,000 won (£3.50). Pretty reasonable eh?

Well that's because you share a floor with lots of snoring people with a wooden block for your pillow. I couldn't decide whether lying on my back with my head on the wooden block, or on my side facing the dead-looking Korean women to my left, was more comfortable. I decided neither was going to cut it, and so persuaded Nat (who didn't take much persuasion) that we should abondon ship and get a love motel together.

We went to so many motels. The rascals were determined to make us pay almost double the Korean rate, even if the rate was announced on the door. Some owners wouldn't even offer us a room, and refused to serve waiting Korean customers until we left. The cheek! The racism! Thankfully we found a place willing to take the risk of two small English girls and bedded down.

The next morning we took the free shuttle bus to the magical world of Suwon Folk Village. Magical, because it takes you back a few hundred years to traditional Korea. And rural areas of Korea today aren't much different. Besides the fact that it's all fake (and frequently used as film sets for Korean period dramas), it was very pretty and gave an interesting insight into traditional Korean life, which now seems so long forgotten.


The village holds live performances of traditional Korean dance.The dancing is very impressive and must take a lot of skill, but they wear outrageous costumes......did old skool Korea really dress like this? Hmmm....


Doesn't stop me wanting one of those hats though.